Chocolate is one
of the most popular treats in today’s world. We gladly put it in desserts,
flavor our coffee with it, or eat it plain in a variety of flavors ranging from
orange peel to bacon. It is also now associated with love and romance, like the
rose, and given as a gift. New studies are even showing that it can increase
serotonin levels and make the consumer happier. It permeates through our food
environment today, and it is hard to imagine a world without it. Like sugar and
the tomato, however, there is a long history behind chocolate’s rise to fame that
we rarely consider.
Also like sugar and the tomato,
chocolate’s beginnings are in the New World, where it was discovered by
explorers and brought back to the old world. Mesoamericans used chocolate as
part of their spiritual rituals and it was often accompanied by hallucinogenics
like mushrooms. In the True History of
Chocolate article, it states that the Spaniards adopted it from the natives,
stripped it of its spiritual meaning, changing it into a medicine and adopting
it into their four-humor system (Coe p. 126). While the exact time of its
introduction into Spain is speculative, the article goes on to say that the first
documented evidence for its appearance in Spain was in 1544 when a delegation
of Mayan nobles and Dominican friars visited Prince Philip in Spain, bringing
chocolate with them (Coe p. 129); regardless of the somewhat vague time of its
introduction, we know that it was “acclimatized” in the Spanish court during
the first half of the 17th century (Coe p. 131).
Chocolate’s introduction in Italy is
about as ambiguous as its introduction in Spain. It is speculated that “chocolate
could well have been disseminated to central and northern Italy through the
international religious networks of monasteries, convents, and priestly orders
that now linked Europe with Latin America” most likely through Jesuits (Coe p.
140), and it is later said that 1668 is when it was introduced to Florentines. The
difference now being that chocolate in Italy was commonly made with “perfume-laden
flavors” like amber, jasmine, and musk (Coe p. 144-145). Cioccolato di Modica,
a popular brand of Italian chocolate, sells a variety of flavors today. In
class we tasted chocolate, vanilla, sea salt, etc., and after a quick stop into
chocolate and tea a shop in Palazzo Pitti, I saw so many more flavors like
lemon to black pepper.
In
later years after its introduction, we see many literary works mentioning
chocolate. In “Mine Hostess” there is a Knight and a man named Marquis, who
drinks the last of the Knight’s chocolate and borrows money from him. The
Knight is more upset at the fact that he drank the last of his chocolate rather
than the prospect of not having his money repaid (Act 1, scenes 13 and 14),
glorifying chocolate’s importance. In “The Day”, Parini writes about a young
man’s most important choice of the day: what to drink, chocolate or coffee.
Parini then goes on to speak of the implications behind chocolate in the
European diet, how blood was spilled and two kingdoms were wrecked in the
Americas just to “refresh thy palate” (lines 144-157). In “Bacchus in Tuscany”,
while chocolate is mentioned, it is brief and not so positive—“cups of
chocolate, aye, or tea, are not medicines made for me” (p. 11) and goes on to
praise wine instead of “non-classical drinks” like chocolate and coffee and tea,
which is not surprising for a Tuscan work. Chocolate not only has a literary
context but a religious one as well—the debate over it being a food or a drink
caused controversy in the church, some arguing it cannot be consumed during
fasting periods (Coe p. 147-148).
If
I eat candy, 99% of the time it is chocolate. I eat it all the time (Toblerone
is my favorite), and I never considered its origins and history until these
lectures and readings. It takes many forms, from a drink to bars to a spread
like Nutella, and is overall one of the most popular food items today. Once it
was adopted from ancient native populations and appropriated into the New World
(like sugar and tomatoes) it rose from humble beginnings to a monumental food
industry with cultural, ethical, and environmental implications. The food of
romance, decadence, recreation, and so on, it was once called “the food of the
gods”, and judging by its unshaken popularity, it may as well still be called
by that name.
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