With its fast association and
popularity to the Mediterranean region and cuisine, Tomatoes would fairly seem
as a product of that region. However, “less calorie- intensive foods, such as
tomatoes, chili peppers, cacao, peanuts, and pineapples were” were actually
introduced and “are now culinary centerpieces in many Old World countries,
namely Italy, Greece, and other Mediterranean countries (Nunn, 163).”
This was vastly a result of the Columbian Exchange which includes the exchange
of “diseases, ides, food crops, and populations between the New World and the
Old World” just prior to Christopher Columbus voyage of the Americas in 1492.
Originating from
South America, Tomatoes weren’t mentioned in European texts until about 1544
and in fact were not red, but yellow (Nunn, 171). Although early traces
of tomatoes exist in the 1500s, tomatoes weren’t adopted in the Old World
society until the early 17th century and finally widely accepted in the 18th
century (Gentilcore, 46).
Originally tomatoes in the Old World
were considered to interfere with the body’s natural functions and hindered
digestion because of its acidity, cold, and damp nature. However, as the late renaissance
period brought forth new scientific information about digestion and changing attitudes
towards fruits and vegetables emerged, the Galenic ideology began to lose authority
amongst physicians (Gentilcore, 47). The introduction of the chemical medicine
and mechanical medicine were two main theories which led to the acceptance of
Tomato to actually help digestion by providing "a mixture of salty and
acidic foods [which] seemed to aid in the fermentation of food in the stomach (Gentilcore,
47).”
Yet,
tomato during the early 17th century, became a condiment of Italian
culture, which served to balance dishes humeral qualities and balance of salty/
dry and watery/ sweet. Through Spanish provinces like Siciliy and Sardina, tomatoes
made its way through the Southern Italian peninsula since, Spain held colonies
in Mexico and Southern America (Gentilcore, 48, 62). Antonio Latini’s recipe, the
first documented authentic Italian recipe in 1692 including tomato, demonstrated
the widespread European cultivation in the ensuing decades in Spain, Italy, and
in France (Nunn, 172; Gentilcore 51).
Tomatoes
were no longer considered unhealthy by the beginning of the 17th century and
were beginning to be cultivated in more gardens, thus increasing in
availability, and in abundance in the Mediterranean region. Recipes gathered
from 1705, suggested tomatoes use was spreading not only as condiments but also
in sauces. Corrado’s cookbooks illustrate how the cultivation and consumption
of the tomato was spreading throughout Italy in the mid- 18th century.
However
one downfall of Tomatoes was that they did not preserve well, especially in hot
climates (Nunn, 171). Yet, sun drying (19th century) and canning (20th
century) helped improve shelf life of tomatoes and lowered costs to the public.
Particularly, during the summer very few veggies grew, luckily though tomatoes
were crops that would grow in the summer seasons. For the “peasants of southern
Italy, tomatoes were all that they had to eat during the dog days of summer (Gentilcore,
65). Which lead to the incorporation of tomatoes into sauces (another form of preservation)
as the “poor man’s meat sauce (Gentilcore, 64).” Quickly, harvests increased as
tomatoes matured quickly and produced abundance, to be sold in markets.
Additionally, the mechanization of canning at the turn of the twentieth century
significantly lowered the cost of tomatoes and resulted in a significant
increase in tomato consumption which become a global food but particularly recognized
in Italy by foreigners in their incorporation in pasta sauce, Pizzas, salads, and
many more (Nunn, 172).
I
found it interesting how in Nunn’s article, 9/10 top ten consuming tomato countries
are Old World countries, Greece being number one. Prior to the beginning of the
program, I briefly traveled to Greece and it seemed that I was eating tomato in
almost every meal. Usually, I am not a huge fan of tomato, however, there is something
distinct about tomatoes in not only Greece but Italy as well, and even Turkey that
give tomatoes a richer and thicker structure than I am use too, which to me
tastes better. For instance, in Rome, I first tried bruschetta, a relatively
simple appetizer with rich flavor topped with tomatoes, basil, olive oil which
I would never have imagined to combine on top of toasted bread. I have been
eating more tomatoes than ever before and when I read in Nunn’s article that “tomatoes
are an important source of vitamins, particularly vitamins A and C,” I began to
ponder if tomato consumption is a major component for the connection of the Mediterranean
diet towards health (172).” “The tomato has been so thoroughly adopted and
integrated into Western diets that today it provides more nutrients and vitamins
than any other fruit or vegetable (Nunn,172).” As Nunn, describes “lycopene, a
powerful antioxidant contained in cooked or canned tomatoes, has properties
that may help reduce cancer” is especially important today and ties very well with
the change in medicine over time. Especially since physicians of the 18th
century were more concerned with the definition and treatments of diseases,
such is true today with our health care system (at least in the U.S.) from our treatment
of diseases (or disease management system) to a shift in the care of healthy
bodies as the development of fields like gastronomy provide greater influences
in our society.
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