Florence

Florence

martedì 13 ottobre 2015

A journey of Tomatoes to the Mediterranean

            With its fast association and popularity to the Mediterranean region and cuisine, Tomatoes would fairly seem as a product of that region. However, “less calorie- intensive foods, such as tomatoes, chili peppers, cacao, peanuts, and pineapples were” were actually introduced and “are now culinary centerpieces in many Old World countries, namely Italy, Greece, and other Mediterranean countries (Nunn, 163).” This was vastly a result of the Columbian Exchange which includes the exchange of “diseases, ides, food crops, and populations between the New World and the Old World” just prior to Christopher Columbus voyage of the Americas in 1492.
Originating from South America, Tomatoes weren’t mentioned in European texts until about 1544 and in fact were not red, but yellow (Nunn, 171). Although early traces of tomatoes exist in the 1500s, tomatoes weren’t adopted in the Old World society until the early 17th century and finally widely accepted in the 18th century (Gentilcore, 46).
            Originally tomatoes in the Old World were considered to interfere with the body’s natural functions and hindered digestion because of its acidity, cold, and damp nature. However, as the late renaissance period brought forth new scientific information about digestion and changing attitudes towards fruits and vegetables emerged, the Galenic ideology began to lose authority amongst physicians (Gentilcore, 47). The introduction of the chemical medicine and mechanical medicine were two main theories which led to the acceptance of Tomato to actually help digestion by providing "a mixture of salty and acidic foods [which] seemed to aid in the fermentation of food in the stomach (Gentilcore, 47).”
Yet, tomato during the early 17th century, became a condiment of Italian culture, which served to balance dishes humeral qualities and balance of salty/ dry and watery/ sweet. Through Spanish provinces like Siciliy and Sardina, tomatoes made its way through the Southern Italian peninsula since, Spain held colonies in Mexico and Southern America (Gentilcore, 48, 62). Antonio Latini’s recipe, the first documented authentic Italian recipe in 1692 including tomato, demonstrated the widespread European cultivation in the ensuing decades in Spain, Italy, and in France (Nunn, 172; Gentilcore 51).
 Tomatoes were no longer considered unhealthy by the beginning of the 17th century and were beginning to be cultivated in more gardens, thus increasing in availability, and in abundance in the Mediterranean region. Recipes gathered from 1705, suggested tomatoes use was spreading not only as condiments but also in sauces. Corrado’s cookbooks illustrate how the cultivation and consumption of the tomato was spreading throughout Italy in the mid- 18th century.
However one downfall of Tomatoes was that they did not preserve well, especially in hot climates (Nunn, 171). Yet, sun drying (19th century) and canning (20th century) helped improve shelf life of tomatoes and lowered costs to the public. Particularly, during the summer very few veggies grew, luckily though tomatoes were crops that would grow in the summer seasons. For the “peasants of southern Italy, tomatoes were all that they had to eat during the dog days of summer (Gentilcore, 65). Which lead to the incorporation of tomatoes into sauces (another form of preservation) as the “poor man’s meat sauce (Gentilcore, 64).” Quickly, harvests increased as tomatoes matured quickly and produced abundance, to be sold in markets. Additionally, the mechanization of canning at the turn of the twentieth century significantly lowered the cost of tomatoes and resulted in a significant increase in tomato consumption which become a global food but particularly recognized in Italy by foreigners in their incorporation in pasta sauce, Pizzas, salads, and many more (Nunn, 172).
I found it interesting how in Nunn’s article, 9/10 top ten consuming tomato countries are Old World countries, Greece being number one. Prior to the beginning of the program, I briefly traveled to Greece and it seemed that I was eating tomato in almost every meal. Usually, I am not a huge fan of tomato, however, there is something distinct about tomatoes in not only Greece but Italy as well, and even Turkey that give tomatoes a richer and thicker structure than I am use too, which to me tastes better. For instance, in Rome, I first tried bruschetta, a relatively simple appetizer with rich flavor topped with tomatoes, basil, olive oil which I would never have imagined to combine on top of toasted bread. I have been eating more tomatoes than ever before and when I read in Nunn’s article that “tomatoes are an important source of vitamins, particularly vitamins A and C,” I began to ponder if tomato consumption is a major component for the connection of the Mediterranean diet towards health (172).” “The tomato has been so thoroughly adopted and integrated into Western diets that today it provides more nutrients and vitamins than any other fruit or vegetable (Nunn,172).” As Nunn, describes “lycopene, a powerful antioxidant contained in cooked or canned tomatoes, has properties that may help reduce cancer” is especially important today and ties very well with the change in medicine over time. Especially since physicians of the 18th century were more concerned with the definition and treatments of diseases, such is true today with our health care system (at least in the U.S.) from our treatment of diseases (or disease management system) to a shift in the care of healthy bodies as the development of fields like gastronomy provide greater influences in our society. 

Nessun commento:

Posta un commento