This week, we learned about the New
World and the Old World meeting through the lens of the history of chocolate.
Chocolate was compared to wine and to coffee, and, depending on who spoke of
it, it had different cultural significance and came with various connotations.
In Baccus in Tuscany, chocolate was
an undesirable indulgence unsuited to the narrator. This dithyrambic poem
praises wine as the ultimate beverage and activity of Tuscany, and with that,
carires judgment of not only chocolate, but coffee as well. “I would sooner
take to poison, than a single cup set eyes on of that bitter and guilty stuff
ye talk of by the name of Coffee”; this stanza shows that in this particular
setting, wine, and its position of the drink of the Tuscans, was source of not
only pleasure, but also pride. The idea of letting the Arabs and Turks keep
their coffee, for the Tuscans are not interested, understates the previous
stanza.
Parini also criticized coffee and
chocolate. His satirical analysis of the source of coffee and chocolate tells
both his time (the Enlightenment era), and his place (Italy). The line, “they
wrecked to kingdoms to refresh thy palate” is pointing out the devastation that
the creation and trade of chocolate (and, implied by the first stanza, coffee
as well), creates. In class, we discussed how the Enlightenment was a time
where this kind of criticism of imperialism was abundant and new. With the new
understanding that there are different ways of being and that not everything is
about Christianity, human rights became an important ideal that hadn’t been
given as much consideration previously. This criticism of imperialism, however,
was not a common sentiment among all Europeans; after all, imperialism and
colonization on a large scale continued to take place for centuries and,
arguably still do. Parini’s tone in particular draws the reader in by setting
up an image of a common occurrence- watching someone order a drink- and invites
the reader to critically analyze the impact of small decisions like buying a
drinking chocolate.
The True History of Chocolate reading was not a poetic or
satirical criticism of chocolate, but a critical history. Like Baccus in Tuscany, this piece talks about how the Jesuit
priests in Spain’s American colonies “were not in the long run sympathetic to
the native populations in their charge [but…] one native custom was gladly
adopted by them: chocolate drinking” (140). In each of the countries discussed-
England, Italy, Spain, France, and the Americas, there was a different way of consuming
chocolate and the act had varied significance. It was interesting to me that in
the history of chocolate, the importance of the coffeehouse came up again. We
studied this closely in the Istanbul module of this course- coffeehouses in the
Ottoman Empire and their adaptation in Europe. Here again, the coffeehouse is
discussed as “one of the greatest English institutions, retaining its social
and political importance well into the next century” (167). This is a
fascinating period in time; finally there is a space for public discussions
with strangers, a space for democracy to take place, and in England just as in
the Ottoman Empire, it was a contentious space where citizens could criticize
their governance. All of this was centered around a beverage- coffee- that has
roots in a far away land marked by imperialism and slavery.
Our final
reading, Tastes and Temptations,
complemented our visit to the Uffizi Gallery very well. Reading about how
cultural context and time period affected how food was portrayed in art gave me
a better lens to do a close reading of a piece in the Gallery. In particular,
reading about how the hunger in Spain inspired a different kind of still-life
gave context to different still-lifes. For example, Cotam’s Quince, Cabbage, Melon, and Cucumber, which portrayed food without
desire, though still “with meticulous and unidealized accuracy”, made me think
about how the biological circumstances of the artist and their nation affected
the art. In sum, this week’s readings informed a nuanced way of thinking of the
way food was idealized in the Late Renaissance and the Enlightenment eras.
Chocolate Bar in Vienna that I saw; I saw many chocolate bars like this.
Close Reading from Uffizi Gallery
The painting I chose is The Dutch Courtesan by Frans Van Mieris Il Vecchio. It is of a woman, presumably a woman of
wealth, because of the title and because of her fancy robe, which is open,
revealing her breasts. She looks passed out, and in the background, there is a
porcelain pitcher. She is the main focus in the photo, she is illuminated by
light; even the label reads “the use of light accentuates the gown and the flesh
of the sleeping courtesan”. At first glance, what stood out to me was that she
was passed out drunk. At second look, I saw the pitcher in the background, less
illuminated, but still visible enough to where it is the second thing most
viewers notice. Finally, I notice the veiled woman in the background.
I
think it is wine in the pitcher behind the Dutch Courtesan. It reminds me of Baccus in Tuscany; the love of wine, to
the point of excess. Just like the dithyrambic poem, the end point of this piece
of art is the excessive consumption of wine. Wine brought out the spirit of the
people in Tuscany as in other parts of Europe, and this may be a realistic
depiction of the time. It makes me wonder if people in the Dutch Court and
other courts drank to excess, and also I am thinking of this in the context of
Baroque paintings which did not always have an interest in elaborating a moral.
So, it is likely that this painting is not
a judgement of the woman who drank to excess and passed out, but a
realistic depiction of something that happened during this time. It also
reminds me of a reading we had in the Istanbul module of Making the
Mediterranean about alcohol consumption in Turkey. It was about how it is harem
in Islamic law, so if a Muslim is to break the law at all, to drink, they
tended to do it in excess, because one drink or a whole night of drinking is
considered the same level of sinning. So, when Muslims did drink, they drank
heavily, so as to get their fill while they are sinning. The concept of
drinking to excess and passing out is interesting to me because it is not
something I used to think of as a historical practice, but now I do.
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