Making the Mediterranean Response 1

Keri Ferrari 

1) THE COLOMBIAN EXCHANGE

 “The Columbian Exchange: A History of Disease, Food, and Ideas” by Nathan Nunn and Qian Nancy defines the Colombian Exchange stating, “The Columbian exchange refers to the exchange of diseases, ideas, food, crops, and populations between the New World and the Old World following the voyage to the Americas by Christopher Columbus in 1492 (163).

 Through slavery, Africa’s role in the triangular trade system became detrimental in stablizing as well as growing the trade system. The first leg of the triangle was from a European port to Africa. It was an area completely taken advantage of by Europe and the Americas and people were merely seen as industrial products.

The Americas’ role in the triangular trade system was critical in producing and exporting its products, notably sugar. During the second leg of the triangular trade route, ships made the journey (the Middle Passage) from Africa to the New World. Many slaves died of diseases including: Smallpox, measles, whooping cough, chicken pox, bubonic plague, typhus, and malaria. Syphilis became an epidemic in Europe. However, once the ship reached the New World, enslaved survivors were sold in the Caribbean or the American colonies.

            The American demand for slaves arose from two natural conditions. One being the fact that new agricultural enterprises required new sources of labor. Sugar was a peculiarly labor-intensive crop and it needed more labor per acre than most food crops, simply to grow the cane. The other condition that brought about a strong demand for slaves was the demographic impact of African and European diseases on Native American populations. The Columbian exchange introduced potatoes, maize, and cassava to the Old World and the Americas provided the Old World with unpopulated land suited for the cultivation of coffee and sugar. Food indigenous to the New World today comprises an important part of the world’s diet: maize, potatoes, cassava and sweet potatoes, tomatoes rank among the top 15 (Nunn and Nancy, 168).

            Europe’s role in the triangular trade system was largely important to direct the overall structure of the trade. The third leg of the trade connected the Americas to Europe where the main exports were sugar, rum, and molasses, thus completing the triangle. Europe saw an upwards spiral in terms of economics and a growing bourgeoisie class. Again, sugar was by far the most important of the overseas commodities that accounted for a third of Europe's entire economy. The introduction of potatoes to the Old World also let to an increase in population and urbanization and arguably had the greatest influence on the Old World due to the nutritional benefits it offered. (Nunn and Nancy, 165). Additionally, Quinine “an anti-malarial alkaloid and medical ‘gift’ from the New World” (Nunn and Nancy, 179) was recognized as the first effective treatment of malaria in 1841. “Quinine was a “tool of empire’ and significantly enhances Europe’s ability to colonize tropical regions of the globe” (Nunn and Nancy, 179). It is widely thought that that colonization of Africa would have been impossible without quinine.  Last, rubber was used for shoes in the 19^th century, thus also becoming a hot commodity of the time.

2) A HISTORY OF THE TOMATO IN ITALY

In the 17th century people had a change of heart regarding the tomato and discovered that the delicious fruit was to be enjoyed. Tomatoes became an important foodstuff and condiment and had an artistic presence through the late Renaissance. Antonio Latini’s, La Vita Di Uno Scalco: Tomato Recipes notes that Carlo Mangini was the first Italian to put a tomato in still life (47) and many other paintings depicted actual dietary practices. Examples of how they were eaten include being paired with eggplant and squash, or used as a condiment with egg cardoon (49).

New medical ideas in18th century regarded that tomatoes were safe to eat cooked and were no longer a health risk. There were two new medical theories. One being that chemical medicine saw the body function as a chemical process. The other that mechanical medicine was regarded the body as a machine. In Gaenlic humor notions the tomato was thought to hinder digestion because of acidity (Latini, 47). In the “18th century physicians were less interested in discussing the relative merits and threats of different foodstuffs. Instead, medicine was increasingly directed to the treatment of disease rather than the care of healthy bodies” (48).  The progressive way of thinking during the Renaissance helped to establish the tomato, or “golden apple” as they were regarded as a desirable food product to be painted as well as consumed.

17^th century-18^th century

After Spain brought tomatoes to Italy they grew readily in Sardinia. People would preserve tomatoes through making tomato paste or sun-drying them. The Spanish influence of the use of tomatoes in Italy stems from Southern Italy and the first use of tomatoes came from the southern Italian peninsula islands of Sardinia and Sicily. (These places were all once under the authority of Spain.) Antonio Latini, a cook from Spain, served for the royal family of Naples and experimented a lot with recipes, bringing Spanish flavor to Italy. He experimented with new world ingredients. Combinations of tomatoes and squash with eggplants and chilies came to Italy by way of Spain as well. Murillo notes this in his work, Angel’s Kitchen. The French also influenced Italian cooking. The French Influence accounts for the introduction of tomatoes in Italy’s main producing areas (Parma). French influence is visible in dishes such as Coli di Pomodoro (tomato sauce from the French coulis; condensed sauce). This was used as an accompaniment to a wide variety of foods: veal, sliced veal head, stuffed small chicken, turtledove, roast sturgeon, trout, sliced crayfish, poached eggs, and squash. (Latini, 61).

19^th century

By the 19^th century tomatoes had become so common people were throwing them. Pomodorata is the word used to describe throwing tomatoes in an effort to show disapproval of public performers in Italy (Latini, 64). Although growing tomatoes was still labor intensive, they formed a large part of the diet for peasants in Southern Italy who ate a vegetable rich diet. The growing and cultivating of tomatoes was a cottage industry in that the government overlooked it though it provided much needed income to peasants.  In Naples, the tomato became the core condiment on pizza. The poor only ate raw, unripe or rotten tomatoes and the better tomatoes were saved to be cooked in sauces for use in the colder months. (Latini, 68).

3) CASTELVETRO, THE FRUITS, VEGETABLES, AND HERBS OF ITALY

Excerpts from Castelvetro Giacomo’s, The Fruit, Herbs and Vegetables of Italy translated by Riley Gillian very specifically explains Italian food and food practices. It especially elaborates on how to use foods when they are in season. For example in the spring, many green vegetables such as broccoli, spinach, and asparagus are available. Artichokes are seasoned in the spring unlike in England and can be eaten raw or cooked through out. Giacomo’s text explains ways to cook artichokes depending on the time of the season and some of the best ways to eat them. Artichokes are thought to be particularly good as an aphrodisiac, a diuretic.

4) SERAO THEY ARE WHAT THEY EAT

In “What They Eat” by Matilde Serao, the author is able to make a big impact regarding some of the historical elements of pizza in a concise essay. The opening paragraph tells of the undesirable nature of pizza in Rome, as it seems out of place when not in Naples. The many times pizza is mentioned throughout this text serves to make a point that it has not always been the delicious food I picture it as. In Naples, pizza was born to feed the very poor. Often topped with old, maybe almost rotting soffritto (diced veggies), it was not the very delicious food I think of it being. The poor would often consume pizza on the streets or under their doorways – wherever convenient. The poor also could afford only fragaglia (little fried fish) for one soldo and for two soldi they might afford a plate of pasta with some sauce. I am very grateful for the evolution of pizza.  

5) EATING A TOMATO

            When I bite into a slice from a juicy Roma tomato in Italy, it is much more sweet than I could have ever imagined. Tomatoes from home in California cannot compare. The juices are balanced. Not tart, and not bitter. I like them raw, but my mind wanders and I begin to imagine how it would taste with some mozzarella cheese, basil and balsamic vinegar in a Caprese style salad. The tomato feels much softer; the skin is light and the insides more sensitive than ones from home. It is going to be depressing to not have these available to me at home.  

Pizza from Gusta Pizza