I have thoroughly enjoyed learning about
chocolate this week, especially the ways in which its use has changed over
time. These changes have been numerous,
and appeared in many aspects of chocolate consumption, but I am particularly
fascinated by the way the beverage has been perceived and used: first as a
drink used for spiritual purposes in Latin America, then brought to Europe and taken
medicinally, then for pleasure, and then finally coming into use as a sweet for
children. The other aspect of chocolate’s
history that is most interesting to me is the way it eventually came to be at
odds with coffee, which became the symbol of the capitalist working class,
while chocolate became a symbol of elite idleness.
Spanish colonization was the process
which brought knowledge of chocolate to the new world. In the Americas, the beverage was consumed as
a part of religious ceremonies, but when it was brought back to Europe,
according to Sophie and Michael D. Coe (2013), chocolate was stripped of its
Mesoamerican spiritual meaning. There,
it was appropriated into the medical theories that existed at the time, namely
the humeral system. As discussed in
class, chocolate was said to have cold and humid properties, making it suitable
for drinking in hot weather or if one had a fever. However, chocolate soon became a fashionable
beverage to drink for pleasure in Baroque Europe, and could be seen in the
hands of the decadent dukes of Tuscany, the Sun King Louis the XIV, and in
Spanish court, bull fights, and auto-da-fés.
In the 19th century, the Dutch developed the modern process
of chocolate production, and started to create chocolate that was in bar
form. Switzerland also developed milk
chocolate in this era, and it became a treat for children that was thoroughly
separated from its previous use as a luxury for adults and a symbol of
power.
While all of these changes in the uses of
chocolate were occurring, coffee was also being introduced to Western
Europe. In the 17th and 18th
centuries, capitalism and middle class values began to penetrate society in
Northwestern Europe. This meant that
traits like speed, efficiency, and mental acuity were praised. Thus, coffee began to rise in popularity
among the middle class, who were living an active life and drank the beverage
in the morning for its sobering and intellectually stimulating effects on the
mind. Chocolate, on the other hand, was
now perceived as a drink of the idle aristocracy who could lounge in bed in the
mornings and drink their chocolate before their slow day.
Today in Italy, I haven’t seen much
chocolate, other than the bars we sampled in class on Thursday, and maybe I
haven’t been paying very close attention, but I do not recall seeing it offered
as a beverage in any cafes. It seems
that coffee has been pronounced the sound winner between the two beverages in
modern Italy. I wonder when exactly this
occurred, and who the people are that continue to take chocolate as a
beverage. I know that there is a lot of
evidence of Westernization and Americanization of “traditional” Italian
practices today. For example, the
typical long lunch in the middle of the day is becoming less and less common
because of Italy’s role in the global capitalist economy, but there is still
some evidence of this tradition, particularly in rural areas. I wonder if chocolate is drunk by many
residents of rural areas today, or if it ever caught on as a popular beverage
among anyone but the upper classes at all, or if it is most represented in
sweets like the Nutella that is craved by so many Italian children.
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